Peroni Moda Awards (Part 1)

0 Posted by - October 18, 2012 - Diary

‘The Peroni Moda Awards seeks to push the boundaries of excellence and style with the competition challenging designers to design a fashion look that celebrates the iconic Peroni Nastro Azzurro blue ribbon and the brand values of craftsmanship, attention to detail and authenticity.’

On Wednesday October 17th, a fashion show displaying the nine finalists designs and the announcement of the winner took place in Powerscourt Townhouse. I was one of the finalists and would like to show you what went into my design from sketch to finished piece.

I was Inspired by the trophy awarded in the Blue Riband, of which Nastro Azzuro derives its name, I took both the blue ribbon, Neptune (God of the Sea) and Amphitrite (Goddess of the Sea) which are carved into the trophy, as a starting point for the design.

Beginning with the timeless hourglass silhouette derived from the iconic La Dolce Vita era, particularly Sophia Loren, the foundation is comprised of a corset to accentuate  the curves and capri trousers for that retro feel. I draped a design that depicts both the movement of the blue ribbon in the Peroni Nastro Azzuro logo and the waves of the sea. 

Starting with a corset pattern, the canvas was cut and each panel was boned with spiral steel. As opposed to plastic boning, which buckles under pressure and only bends back or forth, spiral steel bends at every angle and moves with the body.

Once the structured corset and trousers were mocked up in calico, the outer layer was draped on the stand. I find it easier to cut draped pieces directly on the stand rather than with a paper pattern as I go by my eye.

On to cutting the fabric. The silk was very lightweight so each piece was lined in organza to give it structure but still keep it light.

A diagonal slice goes through the bodice in order to hold the draped pieces in the exact position I wanted them to be.

The flat patterns of draped pieces always give the most unusual shapes. Both the draped top and skirt were lined in chiffon. Chiffon has a life of its own so it needs to be pinned in place until it is sewn in.

The pieces are then temporarily stitched down to prevent the chiffon from moving and distorting the shape. This is when a thimble comes in handy – ouch!

The eyelets are the last thing to be applied and crucially need to be done with precision. Once a hole is made, the eyelets are hammered in so there is no room for error.

On to the show…

To be continued…

 

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